Molding After completion of the kit part master, non-drying clay is placed around the part.

Molding The clay is pushed up around the part, completely encasing the sides.

Molding The clay is smoothed out flush against the part, making the mold part line.

Molding The clay is cut, squaring it off, and shallow dimples are pushed in with the blunt end of a paint brush. These are called 'keys' to align the mold halves.

Molding The mold walls are placed around the clayed up part, and dammed with clay at the base to prevent rubber leaking out.

Molding Another view of parts readied for molding. Multiple castings of these single parts will be needed for kit part production.

Molding After the liquid rubber is degassed in a vacuum chamber, it is slowly pour into and over the parts.

Molding Once the rubber is completely covering the pieces, air bubbles rise to the surface. These are worked out with a wood craft stick for about 1/2 hour.

Molding After the rubber has cured, the mold walls are removed. Minute amounts of clay sometimes remain and must be picked out and cleaned as shown here.

Molding After the mold halve is cleaned, it is 'painted' with an oil based product to prevent the other halve of the mold from sticking to the first halve. When this is completed, the mold walls are rebuilt, and more rubber is poured in creating the other halve.

Hull Plating 101 On a budget! Here is a saucer with an off white base color..

Hull Plating 101 A couple of small square shapes are cut from a sheet of frosted mylar.

Hull Plating 101 These shapes are airbrushed on in random patterns.

Hull Plating 101 One of the main top patterns are airbrushed on in alternate rows.

Hull Plating 101 The other main pattern is airbrushed on the blank rows completing the saucer pattern.

Hull Plating 101 The bottomside of the saucer. Image contrast adjusted for clarity.

Hull Plating 101 The bottomside of the nacelles. Note other hull plating shapes and lines.

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